The Red Lion and Sun
To date, I've only reviewed one gastropub, the Michelin-starred The Harwood Arms. That needs to be rectified, starting now. For if there's one thing that's quintessentially British, it's the pub. Particularly, on any given Sunday, those public houses that offer up Sunday Roasts, which - next to fish and chips - can be fairly considered Britain's national dish.
But i have an admission to make: I'm no great fan of the Sunday roast, for most of the time they are a mere hodgepodge of boiled and steamed vegetables with a few slices of meat; evidence that little thought has been put into this meal other than 'smash everything we have on there'. This glib assertion is not far from the truth; the Sunday roast came about in the UK and Ireland probably some time in the 17th century, when homes would put meat and vegetables in an oven prior to attending Church. When they returned - no doubt forgiven all their sins, their place in heaven firmly established - the food would be all but done. Easy peasy.
And yet, despite all of that, now and again I will fancy a Sunday roast, in the hopes that whoever is making it can actually make something that is more than the sum of its parts. Please, someone, vindicate this dish! A guilty pleasure Toby Carvery may be (anyone that's spent time in the North of England will know that TC is the new god), but it's ultimately a buffet.
Now to the present: The Red Lion and Sun in Highgate is considered one of the best gastropubs in the UK, and the best (according to the 2023 National gastropubs list) in London. Given that, it's time to see what they do with a Sunday roast.
The Red Lion and Sun has a daily changing menu, though some dishes - such as fish and chips - are perennial. On Sunday the menu switches up again, where three meat and two vegetarian roasts are offered. I opted for the Norfolk black chicken roast with yorkshire pudding, kalettes, root vegetable mash and roast potatoes. First impressions are: that's half a chicken and a massive plate.
The chicken was cooked to perfection, the roast potatoes soft and steaming on the inside but crispy on the outside, and the root vegetable mash well-seasoned and delicious. The yorkshire pudding and kalettes were really nothing special, however, and the red wine jus very watery and incredibly sparing. While I'm glad I this dish, and I think overall it worked well, it's not one I'll be running back to.
For dessert, I had the traditional sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream. The sauce was a rich caramel, the sponge erring on the dry side. It certainly wasn't what I had in mind when I picture a good sticky toffee pudding.
Overall, I was pleased with the service and the value for money, but the quality of the food did not much up with its accolade as being the best gastropub in London. The search continues.
Value for money? £36 for a Sunday roast, dessert, beverage and service charge. As inexpensive as you are like to get in London, and the quality of the ingredients is evident.
Would I return? I'm glad I came, but I probably won't be back
