Helene Darroze at The Connaught
Let's not beat around the bush - Helene Darroze at The Connaught is one of the best dining experiences I've had. The Connaught Hotel, situated in the heart of Mayfair, is a five-star hotel with an award-winning cocktail bar, an afternoon tea lounge, and one of only five 3 Michelin Star restaurants in London (as of 2023, there are 8 in the whole of the UK). That latter was my destination this past Tuesday; Helene Darroze, named after the head chef.
Entering past the doormen and through the revolving doors, suited staff are waiting to direct you to the part of the hotel that you've come to visit. To the right of the entrance, through a dark wooden corridor, is Helene Darroze, a restaurant catering to perhaps thirty covers in one sitting, the plush furnishings, dim lighting and ornate ceiling decorations make this all feel like a secret, a luxury for your eyes only.
The dinner service offers a five and a seven course menu, which changes seasonally. I opted for the seven course menu to get the full experience, which was vegetarian and centred around spring produce and flavours therein.
Prior to selecting the menu though, I was given a carrot-based broth infused with ginger as a palette cleanser. A rather delicious start, which was followed by a small selection of amuse-bouches. As pretty and delicate as they were tasty.
The first course was the radish (farmed in Sussex), with Piedmont hazelnut, fennel foam and Sarawak pepper. This cold starter was crisp and fresh, with an umami hit from the fennel that was rounded by the hazelnut. A great start to proceedings.
Next up was the green asparagus from France, with smoked sheep's milk yoghurt, pink grapefruit, quinoa and chives. Another cold starter, this was a phenomenal dish, a perfect blend of textures, and bitter and sweet tastes.
Next was the onion, from France, with fumaison, sourdough, and lemon thyme. While this didn't blow me away, I appreciate the cleverness of elevating a French onion soup in this manner. Tasty, ambitious, confident, if not too challenging on the palette.
The fourth course was a risotto consisting of Acquerello rice from Italy, pea, seaweed, and Amalfi lemon. I love a good risotto, and this was risotto par excellence. Creamy and rich, with an earthy brininess that really conjured the sense of being out in nature in Springtime.
Next came the Wellington, consisting of leek from Willow Farm in Lincolnshire (Lincs represent), rocket, Paris mushroom, and hay buerre blanc. Evidently the main course of the evening, this was as refined a Wellington as you are likely to find, the leek, pesto and mushroom doing that subtle dance of flavours and textures once again. This meal fails to disappoint.
After the wellington, a small scoop of burnt caramel ice cream with hard bread pieces was offered as a palette cleanser. The ice cream was good, but I wasn't a fan of the overly crunchy texture provided by the bread.
We then move onto desserts, starting with Rhubarb (from Yorkshire) three ways. Now, I am not a huge fan of rhubarb, both in the taste and the texture, but this was yet another winner. The rhubarb was grilled to a pleasant softness, the rhubarb sorbet being absolutely exquisite.
The final course (officially) was all chocolate: 72% from Madagascar, with pear and green cardamom. The mousse and the sauce were both amazing, a dish that I had to stop and luxuriate in between mouthfuls. One of the best desserts I've had.
Of course, this being a 3 star, the meal wasn't finished just yet. Fit to bursting as I was, the 'final challenge', as the wait staff called it, consisted of three desserts: a choux pastry ball, a pistachio Paris-Brest, and a chocolate caramel bar. The choux was good and the chocolate caramel bar adequate, but it was the Paris-Brest that stole the show. An absolutely delicious pastry, and a very fitting end to an extraordinary meal.
There are a few things I will add to round out this review: firstly, the choice of replacing traditional petit-fours with pastries to end a meal is one that I wish more restaurants excercised; petit-fours are never amazing, but I will certainly remember the Paris-Brest from this evening. Secondly, the wait staff were convivial and seemingly all French. This helped to give not only an air of authenticity to the restaurant, but eschewed the idea of French restaurants being prim and proper. Au contraire, I was made to feel right at home. And finally, the only negative of the evening is that the bread was not warm. For the love of all that is holy, please stop bringing out cold bread (it was still very good though).
Upon paying the bill, I was given a takeaway treat to remember the meal by. But needless to say, I could not eat another thing after that extravaganza.
Value for money? This is a 3 star, so it's not going to be cheap. £250 for seven courses, a bottle of still water and service charge. Given that this will to many be the best meal of their lives, it is worth it, especially for that special occasion.
Would I return? Yes. It's close at the top, but I rate this right next to CORE by Clare Smyth and The Clove Club as my most enjoyable dining experiences. You should go.
