The Devonshire
It's nice to see the restaurant industry bounce back subsequent to COVID, but it seems that a certain phenomenon has arisen in its wake: that of the Instagram food trend, those restaurants and street food slingers that are riding a hype train due to some clever marketing rather than - y'know - actual food quality. Now I'm not saying that The Devonshire is one of those (in actual fact it's somewhat relied on word-of-mouth, though I am a little circumspect concerning how the words that are coming out of those mouths originated in their heads), but it certainly is riding a significant hype train right now. Every food blogger and foodie in London is trying to secure a table, with seats released two weeks in advance every Thursday at 10.30am, and those seats selling out within minutes. So I count myself fortunate to get one. Well...I would if I thought the place was any good.
As it stands, I don't. Food at at the Devonshire is bang average. But then, not everyone comes for the food. The ground floor is largely standing room only, where pints of guiness are supped by the cask-load. This is one thing that The Devonshire has become known for in the short time since opening under Oisin Rogers - quality Guinness. The other is the atmosphere of a packed-to-the-rafters pub. On the former, I wasn't impressed. The Guinness was thin and watery. On the latter...well it is always packed, but I don't know if the clientele is a particularly great one. Case in point, for my dinner reservation I was seated within speaking distance of a couple of finance bros. I think if I had been seated at The French House I'd probably have still been able to hear them.
Creaky floorboards, relaxed service and a certain douchey London type that frequents the pub aside, how was the food? Not great, and it definitely didn't make up for everything else.
I started with the prawn and langoustine cocktail (pictured top) which was fine. It was a decent prawn cocktail. Not that you couldn't make one of equal quality at home with relative ease. The waiter that served me my starter noted that it was 'a blast from the past, ay?' It was, but jury's out on whether that is actually a good thing.
I then had skirt steak with chips and bernaise sauce. The skirt steak was cooked well, the fries nice and crispy, but the bernaise sauce didn't have a lot of flavour, with a paltry amount being provided. Really nothing to write home about.
I was, prior to the meal, intending to have a dessert, but the service dragged so much that - by the end - I just couldn't be bothered.
Overall, a disappointing meal at the most-hyped new restaurant in London. Beware the hype train. It doesn't always take you to good places.
Value for money? C. £35 for two courses and a Guinness. If the food had been good, then I would say definitely. But I could have done better at home, so - in that case - no.
Would I return? You couldn't pay me.
