Fallow

Fallow emerged onto the London dining scene in 2021, and since then it's been all upward motion. Sister restaurants Fowl and Roe have also opened, but it is Fallow in St James that remains heaving all hours of the day. This is both a gift and a curse: you can be sure that the food is good, but if the service isn't there then you could be waiting a while for it.

Fortunately, that was not my experience at Fallow (though I have heard such rumblings from other quarters). I went on a Sunday for a Sunday lunch, which is perhaps one of the busiest services Fallow sees (other than Saturday brunch).

Service was fast and thoughtful, with the food itself being of a high quality. I came for a roast, and a roast I certainly got, electing for the lamb leg with all the trimmings; I was particularly happy to see braised red cabbage included, which is to my mind an oft-overlooked Sunday lunch accompaniment. The roast was pretty faultless, and the best I've had in London so far.

For dessert, I went for this little Chelsea tart, with caramelised whey. A delicious, sweetly syrupy end to the meal.

Fallow is not your typical go-to for a Sunday roast (think more country pub), but in London it is perhaps the best you're likely to get, especially in Central. While I wouldn't say that Fallow wow'ed me, it is a restaurant that I can easily recommend for the quality of the food and diversity of the menu, and would gladly go back.

Value for money? C. £60 for a Sunday roast, dessert, drink and service charge. A bit steep, but if you can afford it then you'll have a good time.

Would I return? I wouldn't return by myself, but if with others and they fancied a Sunday lunch without spending an hour on the tube, this would be the one.