Farang

Farang, or 'my new favourite Thai restaurant'. Yes, I would say it even beats out Kiln in Soho. Farang is a Thai colloquialism meaning 'foreigner', which is an apt name given that it is headed up by British Chef Sebby Holmes. Like most Brits that visit Asia at some point in their lives and have the type of food they could only dream of, Sebby came back to the UK and steered his craft in the direction of making stellar Thai food. 

I arrive at Farang near Finsbury Park and immediately notice that it is not your typical Thai eatery. It is not ornate with golden statues, nor made up to look like a street food stall; in many ways it looks like a bistro, the only giveaways being the shelves laden with pantry essentials and Holmes' own curry paste, stir fry sauce and dipping sauce lines under the name Payst (which, after this visit, I cannot wait to try). There is a nice ambience to the restaurant, and it never feels as though you are rushed, which is quite at odds with the speed at which Thai food can be prepared and served.

I opt for a snack, a small plate and a large plate, and if I ever thought that this may not be enough to fill me, oh how wrong I was. The snack, house fried fresh shrimp and white pepper crackers with a coconut chili jam (nahm prik pao) were a great way to start the meal. The crackers may not have been the crackers to end all crackers, but it was the dipping sauce that really sealed it. Creamy but with some serious heat, it asserts itself as being a proper Thai place, spice that will melt your mouth included.

For my small plate, I had Gai Prik, IPA battered and fried chicken with a fish sauce glaze and orange zest. I was amazed at the small mountain (hill?) of chicken that came out. It was crispy, juicy, tender, and mild, which was a nice reprieve from the dipping sauce I had just been ladling into my mouth. 

Finally, I had the spicy 'gaeng gatti' of braised swaledale beef shin, salted potatoes, sator beans and Thai basil, along with jasmine rice (pictured top). Five mouthfuls into this and I realized I was in trouble, not from the heat (this was also a mild dish), but from the sheer amount of food gifted me. But preservere I did, the beef falling apart in my mouth and the coconut and turmeric of the yellow curry doing wonders for my palate.

I left Farang completely full and fully converted to the Thai cooking of Sebby Holmes. I briefly contemplated putting the restaurant in my Top 10, such is the quality of the food here, but I am afraid - like Bouchon Racine and The French House - it will have to settle for Top 20.

Value for money? £50 for three courses, a bottle of still water, and service charge. One of the best meals I've had in London, so definitely.

Would I return? You bet. And I urge any and everyone to visit.