Lyle's

Umami-dominant flavour profiles and balance was the order of the day at this, my second outing to Lyle's. Following on only weeks from Lyle's retaining their position of Number 33 on the 2021 50 Best Restaurants list (a global, annual list sponsored by San Pellegrino), this was the perfect time to see whether their dinner fare passed muster. And, I am very glad to say that while some dishes on the menu didn't quite stick the landing, most were simply iconic.

First thing's first: Lyle's by night is a different creature to Lyle's by day. The lights are turned down low, the music is turned up, and the menu changes from a la carte to tasting. I opt for a Fig-Leaf Cream Soda, and the journey begins with in-house bread and butter, served as you wait (not too long, thankfully) for the first course of appetisers. While the bread is exceptional - soft, chewy and toothsome - I just wish it was slightly warmed prior to serving. Cold bread is a cardinal sin.

This is all forgotten by the first course, consisting of two plates: one some autumn vegetables in a light vinaigrette, the other bitter leaves with stichelton and crab apple emulsion. The former is pleasant, but the latter is showstopping. There is a perfect blend of umami, sweet, sour and bitterness with this dish, and I can see it staying on the menu for a long time.

This is followed by Beetroot, Black Fig and Walnut. The walnut adds very little to the dish, and while beetroot is always a pleasure, it doesn't really stand out as much as everything else on the menu.

Next comes Celeriac, Brassicas and Bergamot. The brassicas has a nice bite to complement the tender celeriac, but it's the flavour that will stay with you. Earthy, umami packing a punch straight to the solar plexus, this is a knockout dish. Stunning.

This is followed by Hen of the Woods, Girolles, Preserved Plum and Egg Yolk. It's a very aesthetically pleasing dish, and the plum works wonderfully well with the otherwise rather bland mushrooms. And yet, it doesn't quite have the staying power of the stichelton or the celeriac.

By this time, around an hour has passed since being seated, and time has veritably flown. Things wind down with the first dessert, consisting of Coffee Meringue, Caramel and Espresso. Not only does this look elegant, but it is phenomenal. There's a ying and yang going on with this dessert, as most mouthfuls are dictated by caramel colliding with coffee. But, every now and then, you'll imbibe some of the espresso lurking at the bottom of the dish. Gears are being constantly shifted, and it's exhilarating.

Finally, three confections are proferred: Buckwheat Macaron, Mandarin Pastille and Brown Butter Cake. The pastille is fine, but the macaron and cake are heavenly. The macaron is probably the best I've tasted, and the brown butter cake could happily be 20x the size.

My one gripe with Lyle's - other than the cold bread - is that serving staff don't seem to be on entirely the same page with regards customer service. My main server was exceptional, enthusiastic and attentive. Others, however, were rather more stately and formal. While my visit was very warm, it struck me that you might feel somewhat alienated from the food depending on who is serving. Which is a great shame, because the food here is accessible, while still being highly accomplished.

Value for money? £69 for the vegetarian menu, £79 for the meat-inclusive menu. I went for the vegetarian and paid £82, which included service charge and a beverage. Given the quality of the food, it is absolutely value for money.

Would I return? Unequivocally, yes. It is considered one of the best restaurants globally for good reason.