The Clove Club
Back to Shoreditch, and this time to visit the esteemed, Michelin-Star-toting The Clove Club. Securing Number 32 in the 2021 50 Best list, The Clove Club is the highest-ranked UK entry in the global list (the only other UK restaurant to make the top 50 is Lyle's, which I had the good fortune to visit earlier in the week). With that honour comes a great deal of promise, so I couldn't wait to see what The Clove Club is all about. Entering through the Doric column facade, the curing room sits to the left (where you can see various hanging meats), while the bar beckons to the right. Rich, dark wood furnishings and low lighting set the mood for a hushed, members-only vibe, and it's into this environment that diners enter to enjoy a seasonal, expertly-curated tasting menu.
Mine started off with a miso broth served in a wooden mug - rich and soothing, it's the perfect palette cleanser for these autumnal months. To follow, three appetisers were served, each of varying quality. The real standout was a mushroom, truffle and Lincolnshire poacher appetiser, so delicately prepared it could be sitting in a museum.
With the foreplay done with, it was time for the menu to begin in earnest. First came a perfectly arranged Beetroot tartlet, a delight to the senses.
Next was aubergine, mint and goat's cheese. This was really something special, as it gives a wonderful insight into the creative process - the aubergine and verbena are good by themselves, but the dish would only be half-finished without the addition of the goat's cheese. One simple ingredient can bring everything together, as it does here, and I love the simplicity of the dish for that.
The main course was a crispy hen's egg over celeriac puree, topped with truffle and adorned with trompette mushrooms and banana shallot. Every element worked well together, although I'm not sure if the egg was supposed to be soft-boiled (it would have been better runny, for my money).
The first dessert was granita with grilled habanero, once again showcasing a great amount of imagination in the devising of these dishes. The coolness of the granita paired with the spiciness of the habanero plays tricks on the tongue, and it's something really quite cool (no pun intended).
Finally, the last dish is a duo of Fig-focused desserts, perhaps the best desserts I've ever had. Thank God I visited during Fig season. I doubt I'll ever have a brulee so lovely; a dessert I will long remember.
Before the bill arrives, I am given three petit-fours - a Cocoa nib Macaron, a caramel choux and a ginger and biscuit bite. All three are delicious, with the ginger taking the prize.
What criticism do I have of The Clove Club? None, really. If you want a meal that has creativity in spades, structured around the best seasonal ingredients, look no further. You won't be disappointed.
Value for money? £113 for five courses including service charge and a soft drink. Given that these dishes will by and large live long in the memory, yes.
Would I return? Certainly.
