Ikoyi
Taking its name from a district of the Nigerian capital Lagos, Ikoyi blends British seasonal produce with a basis of sub-Saharan West African spices (with a hint of the East Asian thrown in). As for the setting, Ikoyi has all the feel of intimate exclusivity. Looking out onto a street that sees infrequent (but not completely absent) footfall, Ikoyi has space for around twenty covers. Refinement is the order of the day, the wait staff conducting a dance the type one only truly witnesses at the best of the best. As first impressions go, it's a promising one. Which is good, because Ikoyi will be the diners' home for the next three hours. That's how long service takes for their epic 13 course tasting voyage (the only menu offered on evenings in the week, and on Saturdays, which is when I went).
Ikoyi doesn't cater to vegetarian or vegan tastes, as most dishes include a fish element. Fortunately, as a flexitarian with a predominantly pescatarian bent, I wasn't about to miss out. Around fifteen minutes after being seated came the first four dishes, consisting of separately trout, octopus, caviar and scallop (see the picture at the top of this review for the full listing). Each dish was sublime, and immediately I was given these challenging, complex flavours. Was that a wasabi reduction? A peppercorn-infused salsa verde? A riot of flavours, and a promise of more to come. I could have eaten ten handfuls of the deliciously creamy trout.
By contrast to the eclectic opening, the nasu, apricot and togarashi, while fairly pretty and tasty, did not leave me feeling particularly inspired.
Ikoyi's signature dish came next, the plantain with smoked kelp and blackberry. Again, it is a certainly eye catching plate; so very modern art. And nice enough, the plantain tender and the crusting...a little forgettable. No wows were had in the tasting.
To follow was the turbot. I love a good turbot dish, and this was among the best I've had. The emulsion, the wilted greens, the delicate, meaty fish - all done to perfection.
Following on from this triumph came one of the single best dishes I have ever had, and certainly the star of this dinner service. The girolles fondue and sorghum crepe is the most delicate, outrageously delicious cheeseburger you'll ever have. Stunning.
Next came the lobster tail, with smoked jollof rice. The lobster was cooked perfectly, the jollof rice deliciously smoky and a wonderful accompaniment to the lobster.
Finally, the meal came to an end with the desserts and petit-fours. The Black truffle and caramel syrup petit-fours was a particular highlight, as was the symphony of colours and flavours in the pistachio ice cream with strawberry and elderflower.
A wonderful experience consisting of intricate dishes and flavours you just won't find elsewhere in London (or anywhere in the UK, really), a visit to Ikoyi is something special. That being said, there are some things I would improve on. Some of these dishes don't really enhance the experience. With so much good stuff going on already, why not trim the fat? A 3 hour dinner service is long by any stretch, so if it is taking this long to prepare 13 courses, pare it back. I would rather have had 9 stunning courses that lasted two hours, than 4 that are tacked on and haven't brought much to the party.
Value for Money? The most expensive meal I've ever paid for. As some of these courses don't need to be included, I would say no.
Would I return? Not until they offer a more slender menu.
