Kiln


There's nothing quite like wandering through the many alleys and side-streets of Soho at night mid-week; free of the hustle and bustle that clogs up Central London on weekends, the late opening hours of the bars, pubs and eateries contribute to a vibe that is altogether inviting. I came into Soho on a Thursday night to grab something to eat at one of the places on my list of cheap eats. Imad's Syrian Kitchen had closed down their kitchen for the night, Bubala was absolutely rammed, but Kiln was to be my saviour. 

A narrow restaurant with customers huddled at the counter that runs the length of the space, with stacks of vinyl on rotation, Kiln is one of those lively places that feels like you've stepped away from London and into another world. Down from the entrance to the restaurant, chefs are animatedly exchanging big clay pots and steel woks as they keep the heat high.

Kiln, on Brewer Street, serves well-priced Thai food, with a focus on the kind of food made in Northern Thailand, influenced by the cooking in bordering countries of Myanmar, Laos and Yunnan (China). This Thai fusion cuisine at Kiln comes in the form of many small plates and some larger ones, with a focus on meat and fish; vegetarians will have a tough time at Kiln.

I started with the chicken and soy dish (pictured top), which was quite possibly the most succulent, juicy chicken I've ever eaten. For £6. Wow.

I then had the sour curry of grey mullet with a side of brown jasmine rice. The curry was extraordinarily tasty, with a depth of flavour that was very surprising. It was, also, extremely spicy. My tongue was in a bit of pain at times, but this didn't stop me because the flavours were that good. The rice made a welcome addition to soaking up the curry.

This was a great meal in a unique atmosphere. 

Value for money? £25 for a small plate, a large plate and a side. Definitely.

Would I return? Yes. I would recommend Kiln to anyone interested in this very singular, deftly prepared cuisine.

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