Wild Honey St James
Though I'm only two and a half years into living in London, I realized recently that I hadn't been to any of the 'new' Michelin-starred restaurants, those that had earned a star on the 2022 or 2023 lists. While I still have a few 2 stars and the two remaining 3 star restaurants still to try, I thought it about time that I visited the new young things, starting with Wild Honey St James.
Situated on Pall Mall, Wild Honey St James has a neighbourhood feel with a hint of decadence, by way of circular overhead light installations and plush wrap-around seating. An immediate fan of the decor and atmosphere, Wild Honey St James is a restaurant also at the more affordable end of the spectrum; while there is an a la carte that commands the standard £90 price tag at most (but not all) one stars, there is also a pre-theatre menu for less than £50 for three courses, including service charge. This is what I opted for on my first visit.
First came the Hors d'Oeuvres, three small bites encompassing a cod pakora, a tangy tartlet, and a parmesan pancake-cum-souffle. Apart from the tartlet (which was just okay), the Hors d'Oeuvres really ramped up the anticipation for the meal.
To start with, I had the soup, which was a type of minestrone with spring vegetables and cornish mussels. This was lovely and lively, fresh and not too briny. A good start to the meal.
Next came cod with a caviar buerre blanc and wild garlic. The cod was cooked to perfection, the sauce wonderfully rich with a smooth, luxurious mouth-feel. This element of the dish was excellent. Unfortunately the wild garlic and burnt aubergine, while visually appealing, were not so much. The aubergine was fine, though didn't really add anything in terms of flavour. The wild garlic, meanwhile, was just an outright pain to eat. As it is, the dish needs to be slightly rethought.
To finish, I had the gypsy tart made with muscovado sugar and raw creme fraiche. This was suggested to me by the waiter (it was this or Iles-flottante), and I am very happy with my choice. The tart was rich and sweet, with the bitterness of the creme fraiche offsetting that nicely. A solid end to the meal; thank you, Vicky, for the suggestion.
All-in-all, I had a lovely time at Wild Honey St James, and would certainly return to sample some of the other dishes I noticed on the a la carte. When judging this restaurant against others, I find the most appropriate comparison is against another neighborhood restaurant, Kitchen W8 in South Kensington. For me, Wild Honey St James is not quite up to the same level of simple creativity as that restaurant, but is still certainly worth a visit.
Value for money? Michelin star quality food, three courses, for £50. Definitely.
Would I return? Yes.
